Monday, April 30, 2012

The Teacher Diaries-Chapter 6-The Compound

Chapter 6

Main Swimming Pool at the Rec.
The Compound

May 2008

Sitting at the pool with Nizam, relaxing and watching my daughter enjoying herself in the water, was pretty cool for a Wednesday afternoon. It's about 5.30 and this of course marks the start of our weekend.
"The time really flew the last five years right? It feels like the other day, we were sitting here on our first night in the compound." Nizam obviously brought this up because at this point everyone knew I had resigned. "Yah, can't believe it myself," I had to concur. "Do you remember that night?"
He wanted to take me down memory lane, because it's obviously what we all like to do, isn't it? Reminiscing is what fuels us, keeping the torch burning so to speak, for whatever we've done in the past.
"Like it was last night," I said with a half smile, almost as if I was the only one there.

24 September 2003

Apartments at Rania
I remember the drive from the airport was a long and tedious one. I was exhausted, both mentally and physically and longed for 4 simple things-a cup of decent coffee, a cigarette-make it two, a hot shower and a bed. I could deal with the world tomorrow. One of our Irish managers, Sean, met us at the airport with the school driver. As we were driving, he was going on endlessly about the ethos of the school and how fortunate we were to receive compound accommodation. My head like in the plane, was once again just leaning against the glass of the window. I closed my eyes for a while, but the bumpy roads caused me to jerk awake every time. "Any of you guys need cash?" Sean asked. While some of us were liquid, one or two had no money. Most of us resigned more than a month before we actually travelled, so money was bit of an issue. All of us out of principal agreed to take a loan from Sean. He gave us each a crisp 200 riyal note. So at least we were off to a good start. A 200 riyal might as well have been a 1000 riyal if you look at the purchasing power it had back then.

As we pulled into the long driveway of Rania Compound, we came across a few soldiers with automatic firearms. This was the first checkpoint. They were dressed to kill. With prying eyes and inquisitive minds they wanted to know exactly who we were. Although our arrival was pre-arranged with management of the compound, the soldiers still found the need to overstate their authority. I must admit it was very intimidating. It was a usual occurrence for compounds to hire the army to protect its citizens from any outside forces and in the absence of war, these soldiers took their jobs very seriously. They mostly interrogated Sean, and he was of course less than impressed.
Our school, rented about 7 villas and 8 apartments in this compound, at an average of 50k a pop. So one would expect that the kind of revenue generated for Rania. we would be treated like VIPs. Needless to say Sean was completely livid at the treatment he was getting, as he was a resident as well. After numerous explanations to justify our presence, we moved on to the second check point. These security guards worked for a private company contracted to the compound. After about five minutes or so, sorting out the villa or apartment numbers, we were finally cleared.

As we were slowly cruising the short streets of the compound, I noticed a lively, almost energetic atmosphere-kids playing outside, teenagers parading or modeling looking for attention, and men and women walking and exercising. It felt almost normal, eerie even, especially coming from the airport.
It felt like we were guests artists in an episode of  The Twilight Zone. During my previous stay in KSA, I was invited to a compound barbecue once, but never lived the experience first hand. The rest of the guys were very pleasantly surprised as well.

We stopped at the first villa. Sean called out, "101-that's you Joe." I got out of the bus and starred at a square shaped prefabbed little house, with a porch, a carport, and a front door with a big brass number plate. The place looked like it was transported by a massive truck and just placed on this spot. Anyway, the location was good as it was close to the front entrance, making for easy comings and goings. As I entered, I noticed an open plan lounge-dining room to my left and a kitchen on my right. Straight down the passage I faced the main bathroom, with bedrooms flanked on either side. Just before the bedrooms, I found another little bathroom, which was equipped with an automatic washing machine. The place was fully furnished, including a dishwasher, and satellite television. For a dry-walled prefabbed building, it was amazingly finished. Plumbing and electricity was contemporary enough to fit into any home. I just wasn't used to seeing walls made of wood or cardboard-couldn't quite put my finger on it.

Anyway after taking it all in, I went to the kitchen to find something to drink and found a little goody pack on the kitchen counter. It was filled with everything from tea, coffee and bread, to biscuits, juice and cereal. Sean seemed to have gone out of his way to make sure that we were settled in and sorted with the essentials. It was nice of him to have done that. After the 200, I didn't expect anything else.

I immediately boiled the water, and made me a strong cup of Nescafe. Just leaving my bags in the passage, I flopped down onto the sofa, a brightly colored floral one, but it was comfortable all the same. I lit a cigarette and just sat there, with my thoughts keeping me company. As I dragged one puff after the other, I noticed something peculiar. There were cigarette markings everywhere. It looked as if someone, didn't like using ashtrays. Cigarettes were put out on the coffee table, the side tables, and even the dining room table. I could understand the multiple layers of dust everywhere, but the place was extremely filthy.
The kitchen was a mess with calcified or 'fossilized' stains. I guess I was too tired to notice it before. The bathrooms were dressed in the same stains. The state of the main bedroom was unfathomable and the worst of all the rooms. The previous tenant didn't only hate ashtrays, it seems he hated bathrooms and toilets as well. I think he must've misunderstood the meaning of the word en-suite. I wished someone had just told him that it didn't mean doing your business right there where you slept. There were no bad odors though. He must've moved out long ago. Nevertheless it was just plain disgusting.
The other bedroom had other strange items lying in the middle of the room. There was this chandelier or lamp that belonged in a pub or pool club. There were also all kinds of signage, like "Merry Christmas," "Party Time," and of course "Club 101". The last sign put the pieces in place for me. The guy that lived here before, used his place as some kind of club and who knows what else.
Like I said I'll deal with the world tomorrow. So I just sat there, making it my permanent place for the night. The phone rang. I nearly jumped out of my skin. It was so loud and looked like it belonged in "That 70s Show". I didn't realize that people were still using these kind of handsets.
"Hello." "Joe?" "Yeah?" "What you're doing? Join us at the pool man." "Ok-Give me fifteen minutes, let me jump into the shower" "Oraait-alright, see you later." I of course didn't know where the pool was, but it wasn't a problem to find. Nizam just wanted to take in everything at once. He was excited about our new surroundings and wanted everyone to experience it with him.
The Second Pool at Rania


Main Tennis Court at the Rec. Center
Restaurant at the Rec. Center

It was Wednesday night and the pool area or commonly known as the recreational center (rec. center), was bustling with activity. Passing a tennis and basketball court, I walked through the center building before exiting into the pool facility. Loud teenagers were playing table tennis and shooting pool, creating the perfect holiday atmosphere. I found the guys sitting on patio chairs, beside the pool, savoring the aesthetics. "Guys, it looks like we made the right decision to sign this contract. It's looking good." Sam was of course more than happy with the first impression. "This is the life! I could get use to this," added Faiq. None of us expected our housing facilities to be this good. It was the total opposite to what my housing was like in 1995, so I was naturally happy. The guys then went on about each others' places, comparing items, furniture, structure and so on. Although tomorrow was officially a holiday, we had to go in and meet our employers. The school bus was going to pick us up at 10 the next morning. I was the first one to leave as my eyes were starting to deceive me. I had to get some rest. "Hello sofa." I flopped myself down again, this time out for the count.


Chapter 7

First Impressions

....to be continued

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Some Beautiful Roundabouts and Monuments in Jeddah















The Teacher Diaries-Chapter 5-The Unexpected


Chapter 5

The Unexpected

The flight on route to our final destination, was very different to say the least. It was more like one star quality, on board a two and half hour journey from hell. I couldn’t believe it was the same airline. The majority of people on this passenger manifest seemed to have come from an abyss in a strange place where normality just didn’t apply. FAA rules? What’s that? I mean really-mobile phones were not switched off, the allocation of seat numbers meant nothing, people were constantly standing and walking around even though the seat belt sign was turned on, and the stench! Oh my word! Where did it come from? If anything I really wished the pleasant fragrance on board this Airbus, would knock me the hell out. I really wanted to painlessly arrive at my new home. Instead it gave me a migraine and a nauseous feeling in my stomach. I leaned my head against the window, wishing it miraculously opened and I could breathe again, getting nature’s enormous vacuum cleaner to suck me out of this plane. Please don’t get me wrong-I have nothing against certain foreign cultures and ethnicities, but someone seriously needs to educate them about the wonders of soap and water.

It seems that the most modern mode of transport that this particular group of people was ever exposed to, was probably the donkey or maybe even the camel. I came to  learn later that the transition from the camel to the car happened so fast that the drivers in this city of angels, make Nascar drivers look like they driving Miss Daisy.


Probably the Safest Means of Transportation
Anyway back to the flight, not that I want to relive that memory. Just when I thought things couldn’t get any worse, we landed at King Abdulaziz International Airport, or should I say third class train station in down town Mumbai. No disrespect intended, but isn’t this the richest country in the Middle East? Why didn’t I see the same development as in Dubai, or why wasn’t it better than the Emirates? Some of these simple yet complex questions I’m still trying to answer.

While the aircraft was still taxiing along the runway, which seemed to have been a lifetime, I had the feeling that the pilot was probably going to drop off each individual passenger at home. If all the rules were already broken, why stop now, he might as well have done just that. After a 25 minute drive on the airport, the doors open to a sweltering furnace. What’s this! Where’s the cool, tunnel looking contraption that links up to the airport? Oh no, wait…I forgot that was in Dubai. Here we were escorted to the terminal building by a bus, and not an Airbus, but an actual bus. Swaying to and fro, on yet another means of transportation, somehow made me lose that celebrity status. It was all gone now and I was just simply stuck in my new reality. Eventually ten minutes later we were at the terminal building, standing in a queue at passport control. Ten minutes in a bus? Where did we go? Stop for gas?

Anyway, as I was standing in the staggering line, I asked myself one question-I came from Africa right? Just checking because I thought WE needed some innovation back home. The queue was moving at a snail’s pace and couldn’t help but get the feeling of inertia. 
“Is this line moving, or is it just my imagination that we’ve been standing still for the last 20 minutes?” complained Ryan, standing behind me. My morbid silence answered his question. I could sense that it was rhetorical anyway, because we all knew that the only thing moving was the papers stuck to air conditioner vents above us. The cool breeze was very welcoming though. I passed the time by trying to find similar smiling and contented faces I saw in Dubai. I couldn’t see any. Not one smiling face. Not even from some of the passengers I recognized earlier from the boarding lounge. Personalities have changed and everyone looked worried and stressed. 

This wasn’t a vacation hot spot, was it. This was a place that prides itself upon on a strong international labor force. So those guys in the plane with the unbearable cologne, were all part of that equation-things started to come together now. I had to refocus. My goals, both short and long term, had to be realized and it had to be the only thing that concerned me. I then decided to be the first person on this airport to actually smile. “Hello, good evening. How you doing?” I greeted with unnecessary enthusiasm. The very serious, intimidating green uniformed official, who eventually decided to look up long enough just to corroborate that the photo in my passport is actually telling the truth, didn’t even show his teeth, never mind speak to me. That didn’t bother me in the least. As I walked through to baggage collection, I saw what seemed like vultures around a corpse. When I wiped out my eyes properly, it was only four porters hovering around one specific passenger, trying to command his bags. The porter service on the airport was of course not regulated at the time, and porters could set you back more that just an arm and leg. The way they marked their territory in the calm before a battle, one would think their salaries solely depended on tips from passengers. So fighting over passengers was a common normality. “I take bags, mafee mushkilla, no problem?” pleaded the funny looking boy.“No, thank you. I’ll get the bags myself.” He didn’t get that-or at least he didn’t want to get that. He followed me with his trolley, like a bag lady and her shopping cart. I just ignored him and he eventually lost interest.


After collecting my bags, I proceeded to security check, with a slight sign of worry. My last experience left a very bitter taste in my mouth. My bags were tossed out onto the floor with total contempt and I had to collect everything myself. It took me more than two hours to get out of the airport. This time around however, I was pleasantly surprised-a complete contrast. The guys here were all productive and extremely efficient. As I placed my luggage through the X-ray machine, I glanced back to check if the officials at passport control had perhaps changed their ways. I remember thinking...wow-the same airport, the same people but completely different standards. I guess this is what I needed to get used to.


At this point however, I should state that since then the service levels have dramatically changed and improved at King Abdulaziz International Airport. 


Chapter 6 - The Compound


....to be continued



Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Register via Email

Hi all-if you register via email on the right side of the page, then you'll know immediately when the site is updated with a new chapter, alternatively follow me on Twitter-@nizaare.

Once again thank you for all the words of encouragement and motivation. Watch out for Chapter 5 and 6 coming soon!!!!

The picture probably indicates best what most of us feel while driving in Jeddah. 

Saturday, April 7, 2012

The Teacher Diaries-Chapter 4-Dubai


Dubai

After a gruelling ten hour stay at the 3 star hotel in the air-AKA economy class with Emirates, we finally cleared the security check at The Sheikh Rashid Terminal-commonly known as Dubai International. I was completely astounded. It was a world within a world-a parallel universe if you will. Even with my previous travelling experience, I have never come across such decadence. 
I entered the duty free area first-with boarding gates flanked on either side on the second level. The gates were stretched so far apart that it could take one about 20 minutes to get to, say gate 35.

Duty-Free has everything you can think of. Perfumes, colognes,CDs, books, cartons of cigarettes, alcohol, and all kinds of electronic gadgets-everything that could fit in the cabin of a plane, you'll find in this shopping paradise. 
I just stood there in a trance-like state of bewilderment. As I looked around the duty free shop, I noticed happy faces, faces of content, and money didn’t seem to matter.
 “Can you charge these items to these two credit cards please,” I heard as I accidentally eves dropped on an over-entusiastic shopper.“Certainly madam,” replied the assistant with such polite excellence. It was amazing to see how the young girl behind the counter with her green jacket and  black slacks, exactly mirrored the flight attendants’ pattern of generic curtiousness-they probably went to the same school.

Duty free is like a license to allow the traveller to forget about responsibilities.Bills, debt, budgets, commitments, obviously meant nothing. Using the proverbial gifting as an excuse. “Oh, look! I got you this in Dubai Duty Free.”Your friends and loved ones would think that you actually cared enough to have bought them something while on vacation. In reality you probably just wanted to elevate your status in your social circle. I know I might be a synic, but common, they walk around with those plastic bags so proudly-as if they were getting paid to advertise Dubai. 



The Team


The eight of us decided to converge just outside the nearest smoking room. We sat on the floor, a few meters away from the Costa Coffee Shop, slouching against the framework of a travelator that stretched past all the boarding gates. We were physically and mentally drained as none of us got any sleep on the flight and were too wired contemplating the unexpected. The eight of us were in transit for about twelve hours and it was pretty normal just sleeping right there on the floor. The team was actually entitled to hotel rooms, but at the time we were totally unaware that the school included these in our tickets. I came to learn that this was the first example of their excellent communication skills.


It’s sort of late to do this, but I feel at this point for the sake of the development of characters,  I need to introduce myself and the rest of the team. Team-feels like we’re off to some kind of World Cup somewhere. Every one of us was special in one way or another. Well let’s call myself Joe for now, then there’s Allen, the Math wiz, Nizam the economist, Lester, the computer geek, Sam, the linguist and expert administrator, Ryan, well I don’t really know his speciality-then there’s also Faiq, the handwork specialist and of course the spiritual leader, Hasan. Our primary goal was actually to enhance the development of English, within our different specialities.

In a way that moment-the moment we were squatting against the sides of the travelator, is when I actually felt like we were out to save the world. In spite of our appearance of poverty, I have never felt more wealthy-being part of something so important. If only that moment lasted for the entire five years.

Chapter 5

The Unexpected

….to be continued


The Teacher Diaries-Chapter 3-The Airport

September 2003

I have never been surrounded by so many family members, even though they greeted me at home, they still felt the incessant need to capture last moments of this celebrity before leaving the country. Needless to say Cape Town International was packed, and I was one of eight who was on the red carpet. People standing around waiting for that boarding call, that announcement that the passengers for flight EK 804 bound for Dubai should board at gate 4, just added to the tension. Butterflies now had a permanent haven in my stomach. My mom and sisters had so many tears in their eyes one could hire them for a funeral, and I didn’t even give my final goodbyes yet. 
My dad on the other hand, looked at me very mysteriously, sending off half smiles now and then, trying hard not to show his true emotion. He was of course not too impressed with me leaving again, taking his grandchildren away from him once more. Although he knew he couldn’t change my mind at that stage, he still hoped for some miracle that the inevitably of me fleeing the city, wouldn’t actually become a reality. Don’t get me wrong, he was happy and proud, but also sad and disappointed-all the emotions a father should feel.
As I glanced across this uncomfortable waiting room, I couldn’t help but notice that all the other money chasers who were leaving with me were going through more or less the same thing with their families.

Mental Note-Airport Greetings must be added to the book of cultures and traditions in the Cape-if a book like this even exists. I think we are the only people who makes a really big deal about personally sending people on their way, no matter the destination. It’s noisy, crowded, and mostly it attracts a lot of attention, hence my celebrity status. Cousins, aunts, uncles, hell even ex-girlfriends, who one hadn’t seen in years, would show and wish you all the best. And if they didn’t, they would be questioned later. It’s weird and nice at the same time.  

“This is the final boarding call for passengers boarding flight EK 804 for Dubai. Please board immediately,” blared through the airport’s PA system. This is it! After multiple kisses on cheeks, hugs-holding on to dear life, and a final farewell to immediate love ones, I stepped through the gates of no-return.


Chapter 4
Dubai

......to be continued

Monday, April 2, 2012

The Teacher Diaries-Chapter 1 & 2


Chapter 1

It’s been 8 long years since graced the shores of my homeland. I find myself at crossroads. How did I get myself into this situation? Sitting in the classroom, drowning in a storm of voices, wondering Is this really what my life has come to? I understand that babysitting the rich and famous, a glorified child minder I was, was a mere facade of what education should be. Mark Twain once mentioned that schooling should never get in the way of true education. I am of course compromising my principles as an effective educator, for the sake of a higher quality of life, well so I thought anyway. Money is after all what makes the world go round. Did you ever notice that those who say money isn’t everything are the ones who have the most of it?

Complaining or venting on another typical day at work, which by the way is in dusty, hazy Jeddah, has really just become a daily sing-song, that kinda gets on one's nerves. Ithought writing might help me avoid sounding like a stuck vinyl LP. I was another one of those saps, joining the modern day nomads of the world-you know the grass is greener on the other side and all that. I sought my refuge in Saudi Arabia, like most Cape Tonians wanted to, especially the young, bright and spiritually uplifted minds. About a decade ago this was like a new trend. Muslims especially, craved desperately to be near the Holy cities of Mecca and Medina and made every effort to get work here. This would save them quite a bundle in cash coming here for pilgrimage from South Africa. The average pilgrim from South Africa pays anything between 30 and 80K per person. So getting a job here is ideal for the person who just can’t see that kind of money in a lifetime. 
The non-Muslims on the other hand saw an opportunity to earn a tax-free salary, where the cost of living is much lower than that of South Africa. Settling mortgages, car debt, saving for education and retirement, can become a short-term reality. Money isn’t everything, right? 

So here I am at one of the most prestigious schools in the kingdom, where apparently it’s an honor just to grace the grounds of the campus. The lush greenery one finds on entering this ridiculously expensive school is a strong contrast to what you actually happens inside. The grounds are maintained daily by a permanent maintenance staff-carpenters, electricians, painters and gardeners, parading around like perfectly synchronized drones, accepting every command without question. As a result the grounds are kept in impeccable condition just to impress the highly respected and to a point, feared Saudi elite. They can visit at any time as half of the stray brats belonging to these families attend this loony bin. After all, this is a boys club for the rich and famous – boys ranging from the ages of 6 through 19. You can’t even begin to imagine teaching these students. It’s just too surreal. Here, perception is the key to success. 

So if it’s this bad, and I’m complaining so much, why am I still here after 8 years? You’ve probably been asking this question from the beginning. To understand this, I have to take you back, to when I first arrived.

Chapter 2

2003

I was working in the private sector in RSA. So many other qualified teachers were doing the same thing. Backin the 90’s, the government instituted a humiliating necessity called L.I.F.O.(last in first out). To cut corners or more specifically cut budgets, LIFO was introduced to get rid of ‘surplus’ teachers. Teaching positions only became available in rural or country areas. Some people made the trek, while others preferred to move to the private sector. So considering the fact that I qualified in ’92 it was a very tough time for me. I accumulatively taught in RSA for only a year, but at 3 different schools.  
Trying to get my feet on solid ground, I moved into the insurance/medical insurance field and then ultimately into the health sector completely. So here I was working as an operation and marketing manager for a very reputable and old school corporate company, when opportunity came knocking on my door. Opportunity to move from South Africa was something I had already experienced in 1995 but I knew based on that period in my life, things would be different this time around.

I saw the prospectus at a friend’s house for the first time. At first I didn’t take much note of the document. I mean really-I was in senior management, with huge responsibilities.Why would I want to go back to teaching? The last time I was in KSA, I had a terrible time. Returning to teaching there was very far from my mind.  
My wife studied this document forensically as if she had accounting finals the next day. She was so impressed she brought my attention to the ‘excellent’ package being offered, which included compound accommodation. 
Compound accommodation inSaudi Arabia is your home away from home, where none of the Saudi rules apply.So it’s not just a mere housing facility but a lifestyle. Inside you’ll find swimming pools, recreational centre, bus services and women are not required towear the traditional abayas
Reluctantly I picked up the prospectus and perused through it with complete skeptism. After reading thelife changing information, I became converted to the idea of leaving again.Taking a deep breath, stepping back and re-evaluating our lives, was probably the best thing at the time for us. We needed a high quality of life instead ofa high standard of living. I phoned the agency immediately. It was apparentlythe last day for interviews. I was really just trying my luck and had nothingto lose.

I remember the day vividly. I was painted in a black suit, silver tie, shiny black shoes and hair that were gelled so much I looked like a wise guy straight out of mafia movie. Although this was the way I looked everyday, the Saudis were vain enough to pride themselves and others upon image and perception. Based on this knowledge I knew that half of the interview might be in the bag just by the way I looked. I really had nothing to lose. Basically I had to convince the agency and the Saudis for a contract and had less than 2 hours to do it. My sales and marketing skills had to be my biggest strength here. They were only looking for current professional teachers but I managed to convince them otherwise. Needless to say thirty-five minutes later I came out of a grueling interview with a broad smile-it went more than just well.


Chapter 3

September 2003

Tobe continued.......